Fatty Acids
Interactions with Malassezia yeasts
Malassezia are natural members of our skin's microbiome. They are lipid-dependent organisms and prefer fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between 11 and 24 carbon atoms. Sebum, the skins natural oil, is the yeast's primary source for fatty acids in this range.
Products containing C11-24 acids can provide excess nutrients for the yeasts to exploit, promoting their growth and colonization on the skin. As a result, most individuals are highly likely to experience a reaction from formulations that contain these ingredients.
Rating: Highly reactive for most individuals
Many factors can contribute to the severity of a reaction to one of the C11-24 acids. The chemical composition of an acid varies depending on its source, which alters the availability of nutrients for Malassezia yeasts. In addition, the acid's concentration within a product or the presence of other ingredients can affect its influence.
Despite these factors, the C11-24 acids remain a direct source of nutrients for Malassezia yeasts. As their presence significantly elevates the risk of an adverse skin response, we strongly recommend avoiding products containing these ingredients.
Matching requirements
Sezia checks for the names of the C11-24 acids, in common or IUPAC form. It also checks for acid groups that include them.
Sources
1. Wilde, P. F., & Stewart, P. S. (1968). A study of the fatty acid metabolism of the yeast Pityrosporum ovale. The Biochemical journal, 108(2), 225-31. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1198797/?page=1
2. Ashbee, H. R., & Evans, E. G. (2002). Immunology of diseases associated with Malassezia species. Clinical microbiology reviews, 15(1), 21-57. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC118058/
3. Growth Requirements And Lipid Metabolism Of Pityrosporum Orbiculares M. Nazzaro Porro S. Passi F. Caprilli P. Nazzaro G. Morpurgo https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0022202X15447062
Example ingredients
Name | Chain Length | Chemical Structure | Type |
---|---|---|---|
Undecylenic Acid | C11:0 | CH3(CH2)9COOH | Saturated |
Lauric Acid | C12:0 | CH3(CH2)10COOH | Saturated |
Tridecylic Acid | C13:0 | CH3(CH2)11COOH | Saturated |
Myristic Acid | C14:0 | CH3(CH2)12COOH | Saturated |
Pentadecylic acid | C15:0 | CH3(CH2)13COOH | Saturated |
Palmitic Acid | C16:0 | CH3(CH2)14COOH | Saturated |
Palmitoleic Acid | C16:1 | CH3(CH2)5CH=CH(CH2)7COOH | Unsaturated |
Margaric Acid | C17:0 | CH3(CH2)15COOH | Saturated |
Stearic Acid | C18:0 | CH3(CH2)16COOH | Saturated |
Vaccenic Acid | C18:1 | CH3(CH2)5CH=CH(CH2)9COOH | Unsaturated |
Oleic Acid | C18:1 | CH3(CH2)7CH=CH(CH2)7COOH | Unsaturated |
Elaidic Acid | C18:1 | CH3(CH2)7CH=CH(CH2)7COOH | Unsaturated |
Linoleic Acid | C18:2 | CH3(CH2)4CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)7COOH | Unsaturated |
Linolelaidic Acid | C18:2 | CH3(CH2)4CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)7COOH | Unsaturated |
Alpha-linolenic Acid | C18:3 | CH3CH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)7COOH | Unsaturated |
Gamma-linolenic Acid | C18:3 | CH3(CH2)4CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)4COOH | Unsaturated |
Stearidonic Acid | C18:4 | CH3CH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)4COOH | Unsaturated |
Nonadecylic Acid | C19:0 | CH3(CH2)17COOH | Saturated |
Arachidic Acid | C20:0 | CH3(CH2)18COOH | Saturated |
Gondoic Acid | C20:1 | CH3(CH2)7CH=CH(CH2)9COOH | Unsaturated |
Dihomo-Y-linolenic Acid | C20:3 | CH3(CH2)4CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)6COOH | Unsaturated |
Mead Acid | C20:3 | CH3(CH2)7CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)3COOH | Unsaturated |
Arachidonic Acid | C20:4 | CH3(CH2)4CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)3COOH | Unsaturated |
Eicosapentaenoic Acid | C20:5 | CH3CH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)3COOH | Unsaturated |
Heneicosylic Acid | C21:0 | CH3(CH2)19COOH | Saturated |
Behenic Acid | C22:0 | CH3(CH2)20COOH | Saturated |
Erucic Acid | C22:1 | CH3(CH2)7CH=CH(CH2)11COOH | Unsaturated |
Docosatetraenoic Acid | C22:4 | CH3(CH2)4CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)5COOH | Unsaturated |
Docosahexaenoic Acid | C22:6 | CH3CH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)2COOH | Unsaturated |
Tricosylic Acid | C23:0 | CH3(CH2)21COOH | Saturated |
Lignoceric Acid | C24:0 | CH3(CH2)22COOH | Saturated |
Nervonic Acid | C24:1 | CH3(CH2)7CH=CH(CH2)13COOH | Unsaturated |